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Forums › Marker Talk › Problem/Tech forum :: Archives › Promaster: Bolt prevents balls from dropping into chamber :: Archived

Promaster: Bolt prevents balls from dropping into chamber
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seanp789
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2006 1:54 pm    Post subject: Promaster: Bolt prevents balls from dropping into chamber

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Stock Promaster with Redz Cam lock clamping feedneck. Only second week of use.

Ok so i I have identified the problem. when you look down the feedneck the bolt is quite visible.

when you drop a paintball into the feedneck or even use a HaloB the paintball will simply rest on the tip of the bolt and never enter the chamber.


Details: Ok so how far the bolt cocks back can essentially be adjsuted with the LPR. Well I cock it as far back as the lpr will allow without leaking but it still blocks the ball. If I crank the lpr up past that point it will have a very large leak coming from the solinoid but the balls will now drop into the chamber and fire normally albeit with a masiive amount of shootdown.

While the lpr is not leaking i can manually pull the bolt pin back for each single shot and the ball will drop into the chamber. Each time I do this there is a short bleed off that will not recharge until i fire the marker.

Summary:
The bolt wont cock back far enough to let balls in the chamber. Any attempt to position the bolt further back either manually or by increasing the LPR results in air bleeding.

Other:
I've tried loosening the ramcam, reseting the 2 large screws that go into the back fo the ram chamber. A different ram spring will not do anything because no matter what once the bolt moves back to where it should be the air bleed begins.

What driving me nuts is that the gun itself shoots fine, it just wont load paint without chopping
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Pntbll500
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2006 3:45 pm    Post subject:

It could be a solenoid gasket problem if the noid leaks when you gett the LPR up high enough to get th bolt back. I'm not sure though i don't know alot about promasters.

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63VDub
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2006 4:51 pm    Post subject:

sounds like your hammer is not screwed all the way on to the ram shaft. that will move the bolt forward sometimes enough to block the chamber.
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seanp789
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2006 6:24 pm    Post subject:

"63VDub" wrote:
sounds like your hammer is not screwed all the way on to the ram shaft. that will move the bolt forward sometimes enough to block the chamber.


If you mean the plastic screw knob in the back of the gun i have it screwed in all the right now.

Basically the to get the bolt back far enough the hammer is lining up with the over pressure release valve in the back fo the gun. The hammer itself slides into another large piece which I think is what controls the actual gas flow (cylinder body # 7 in the manual). I need so way of getting the bolt back far enough with without the the hammer and piston (# Cool pushing back into the over pressure release value which i cant figure out if that is (67 or 68, the 10/32 barb or the QEV) It releases a massive amount of pressure so i am inclined to believe its the QEV. What part of the piston actually would engage the QEV? It jsut look sliek a metal rod to me.
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63VDub
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2006 8:52 pm    Post subject:

the hammer (#6) is screwed on to the piston (also called the ram shaft #8). it is held in place with loctite. If the loctite has broken down, or there was not any put on at the factory, the hammer can start to unthread, lengthening the overall distance between the back of the piston and the hammer, in effect moving the bolt forward into the breech and blocking the natural flow of paint. What I suggest you do is remove the cylinder body (#7) from the body, grasp the piston with some nonmarring pliers and attempt to tighten the hammer with a strap wrench or other nonmarring device. if the hammer turns freely on the piston, you need to remove it, add some loctite to the threads on the piston and reinstall the hammer, making sure it is threaded on all the way. This should, in effect move the bolt back out of the breech and have you mowing faces again.

That is, unless you are inserting your bolt pin in front of the hammer, instead of cirrectly in the hammer groove.
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seanp789
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 12:13 pm    Post subject:

Thanks, ill check that and get back to you guys.

"63VDub" wrote:
the hammer (#6) is screwed on to the piston (also called the ram shaft #8). it is held in place with loctite. If the loctite has broken down, or there was not any put on at the factory, the hammer can start to unthread, lengthening the overall distance between the back of the piston and the hammer, in effect moving the bolt forward into the breech and blocking the natural flow of paint. What I suggest you do is remove the cylinder body (#7) from the body, grasp the piston with some nonmarring pliers and attempt to tighten the hammer with a strap wrench or other nonmarring device. if the hammer turns freely on the piston, you need to remove it, add some loctite to the threads on the piston and reinstall the hammer, making sure it is threaded on all the way. This should, in effect move the bolt back out of the breech and have you mowing faces again.

That is, unless you are inserting your bolt pin in front of the hammer, instead of cirrectly in the hammer groove.
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seanp789
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 7:02 pm    Post subject:

The hammer appears to be firmly connected to the piston, no way of turning it, any other ideas?

I want to say it has something to do with the 2 side screws holding the cylinder body, but but taken them out and refit them several time with no change.
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Pntbll500
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 1:16 pm    Post subject:

Don't tighten them all the way it'll cause your ram to stick if your talking about the ones I think you are so try lossening those screws

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seanp789
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 1:41 pm    Post subject:

I got some feedback directly from the ICD support department.

There appears to be a batch of faulty Orings on the piston that have been in circulation that basically chew themselves apart on the cylinder body. So this will not affect all Promasters but will affect any that were assembled with that batch of Orings.

This is a big disappointment for me since I literally just got the gun, but they were more than willing to fix under warrenty free of charge.
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